Winter Storage Suggestions

darakweaver

I'm new to the Hurricane boat world (actually, new to owning a boat period).  I'm getting it out this weekend to get it ready for winter storage.  Anything that I should know?  I'm going to take the batteries out and put them on a trickle charger and will flush the engine (boat used in salt water but dry docked when not in use).  Will of course clean the boat well too.  But, anything I need to do to the engine?  Should I get a cover for the engine (boat already has a cover)?  Please help this "newby"!
thanks

nquirk

darakweaver

Welcome to boat ownership.  First of all, you own a Hurricane, so we know you know something about boats because you bought a good one.

You didn't mention the model of the boat or the engine it has (inboard, outboard, etc)

Some advice, although I'm not a Saltwater boater is to ensure after every use in salt water that you flush that engine with fresh water and rinse it down.  Salt is extremely corrosive and will shorten your engines lifespan.  (refer to the engine manufacturers recommendations)

Removing the battery is one of the last things you'll need to do.

As for winterization, again, I don't know your engine type or your location, but assuming its for a long winter's nap, I'd again follow the engine manufacturers recommendations.  This is important as the winterization process is different for inboards than outboards.  And on some outboards (2 stroke carbed vs DFI vs 4 stroke have different requirements on how to treat them) 

You want to change your lower unit gear oil, inspect for signs of wear and/or water penetration to the gear casing (oil will be milky if affected by water)

Then you'll need to ensure you add fuel stabilizer/treatment to the engine and run it for 5-10 mins.

draining the cooling system. (again different for inboards and you must remove all core plugs and recommend you use antifreeze in the cooling system for storage)  Outboards, store them straight up/down

Then you should replace fuel and/or fuel/water separator filters. (as applicable)

Then you may need to either fog or oil the cylinders (depending on engine)

Also, if you're in freezing weather, you need, if equipped to either drain/clear your bilge pump and livewell pump lines to prevent damage (again, for livewells, you can use non-toxic antifreeze)

Lastly, if you have snowfall, you'll need to either cover the boat with a tarp/support structure to keep snow out and from building up, or better yet shrink wrap it. (assuming outdoor storage)

What I'm stressing is follow the engine manufacturers recommendations.  It is important.  If you're not comfortable, I suggest finding a reputable authorized dealer for the engine/boat and have them winterize it for you.

Hope this helps

Ernest_T

Hi, I'm a new boater too.  I just finished the winterization process, and here are some tips I picked up: Since you ask about a motor cover, I'm guessing you have an outboard like me.  Make sure you tilt the motor down to let all the water drain after you pull it from the water.  It is also a good idea to change out the lower gear case oil before you store it (check for water in the gear case oil).  My mechanic also recommends changing the engine oil before storage, since old oil can collect water and acids.  Another option is to add an oil stabilizer.  He also recommended filling the gas tank up and adding a fuel stabilizer and running it through the engine as well.  With a full gas tank there is less room for water condensation.  I run Marine Sta-bil in the fuel along with Yamaha Ring Free Plus year round.  I also took the additional step of fogging the engine for winterization.  The method I used to fog the engine is shown here: [link=http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71763&d=1288444337 ]http://forums.iboats.com/...amp;d=1288444337 [/link] I used a 3 gal. portable fuel tank.  I also changed the 10 micron fuel filter, since it can collect water.   

A cover for the motor is not a bad idea.  I store my boat in a marina and a cover keeps the bird crap off.  I also put on an extra cover for the whole boat, and use the cover support poles to be sure water will drain off and not sit.  A friend also recommended removing the cushions from the boat to prevent mildew on them.

I also washed and cleaned the boat.  I will wash and wax again first thing in the spring.

Drain the fresh water system.  My dealer warned me that he sells many new water pumps in the spring, because people forget to drain the fresh water, and they freeze and break the pump.  Depending on where you are and how cold it gets, you may want to run some RV antifreeze through the fresh water system. 

Pull the batteries and put them on a float charger (I use a Battery Tender).

That is all I can think of for now.

Good Luck.    

nquirk

Ernest T....nice seeing you over here as well as on iboats.

So I missed the obvious when you asked about an motor cover so its most likely an outboard.

The only comment I want to add is on the fogging.  If you have a 2 or 4 stroke DFI/EFI engine, make sure you check before fogging.  I have a 2 stroke DFI Mercury.  Fogging is a no-no and will cause issues with your injectors so its important you verify.  I actually have to pull each plug, oil each cylinder and manually crank the flywheel to lubricate the cylinder walls, pistons, rings, etc.  

The process that Ernest T is the proper method for fogging EFI/MPI engines and the latest for each type of motor is usually available on the manufacturers site.  2 stroke carbed can be fogged in their current setup by spraying fogging oil into the intakes on the carbs so its important to find out what you need exactly.

Not to scare you as its fairly easy/straightforward as long as you have the right method for your engine.

darakweaver

Thanks so much!  Great tips!  I'm going to print what you all wrote as well as check my manuals.  Again, thanks so much!

Ernest_T

nquirk, Thanks for the clairfication on fogging.  I am learning all this stuff as I go along.  I do have an EFI/MPI engine, but I didn't realize that there might be different fogging methods depending on the engine type. 
 
You mentioned winterizing the livewell system.  I haven't used my livewell, but I did notice water in it once or twice during the season.  Should I be worried about draining/flushing it?
 
Thanks!  

nquirk

Absolutely winterize your livewell.   Even if you haven't used it, the pickup will have put water in the lines.  You can either connect the pickup under the boat to some RV/boat antifreeze and draw it in.

What I did instead, was open the the pickup line and the return lines and used some compressed air and blew the water out of the lines (couldn't get to the pickup as it located directly on top of the bunks of the trailer)  Either method works.

Hope that helps.

Ernest_T

Probably a stupid question.  Do you blow the compressed air from the live well or from the inlet/exit points on the boat.  I think both the pickup and the drain are located at the stern pretty close together on my boat, so access to either location should not be a problem.

Thanks for the help!

nquirk

I open the valves on the intake/outlet ends, and removed the pump from the fitting on intake.  Then I used compressed air (around 40psi or so) from the livewell side.  

callforbids

I am not sure where in the USA you are located, but if the boat is subject to freeing temperatures I would also do the following:
 
Change the lower unit lubricant. If there is just a small amount of water in the lower unit, it could freeze and damage the unit.
 
Also, on your final engine flush I would run a mixture of anti freeze and water through the engine. I know they say all the water will drain from the engine, but a little antifreeze is a safeguard.
 
I would pull the prop, and seal up the opening arount the prop shaft. You don't want to get any moisture in there.
 
I would put some Stabil in your gas to keep it fresh until next season.
 
Good luck,
Steve

e9045992710

We have a new 2009 FDGS 201 in Jacksonville Fl. Last year we simply diconnected the battery, filled the gas tank (less room for moisture) and added a bottle of gas treatment. When Spring of 2010 came, we reconnected the battery, started the motor and off we went. Hurricane Boats are the greatest. 

ambertom

Dont forget to drain all fresh water out of water system and then add eco-friendly anti freeze. Put 1 to 2 gallons in fresh water tank and run until it comes out the nozzles and faucets.
  Also place 2 to 3 buckets of moisture absorber on the boat before you cover.
  If you have an outboard motor, top tank off with fuel and put in all additives. Run motor with garden hose hooked up and on( like flushing) for 15 to 20 mins, then stow in down position. Make sure lower unit drains all water out and cover

smiley

DO NOT put regular antifreeze thru the water tank if you use it for drinking water!!!!

They make a special one for that use that is non toxic.


You can move south and not bother with any of this winterizing stuff!!

dakotalax7

One last question but first from me. I have a 2012 2200 I/O  Trying to take out of storage and both batteries are dead. As i cant remove batteries on this model due to engine hood being electric, how would i get hhod uo to charge batteries for use?