New to me 2002 FD 196

powerhouse

Last weekend I picked up the set up. It needs some work but all in all seems to be a solid boat. It came with a Yamaha 115 with about 500 hours, which may not be the biggest and best set up for the boat but it should be adequate. Took it out on the local lake and it ran strong at higher RPMs without any issues and the same goes for idling or trolling. I noticed that the speedometer, tachometer and trim gauges aren't working but the fuel and voltage gauges do. Also most of the switches don't work with the exception of the bilge and horn switches, it's possible that the push buttons on the left side of the console may be the cause since most are stuck pushed in.  There's a mount on the bow of the boat for a trolling motor but i'm not sure what the standard length is for deck boat trolling motors. Any help would be appreciated. The lights around the inside of the deck are all blown and seen better days, so I plan on replacing them with LED versions. And then there's some other electrical that needs cleaning up, like under the console and around the battery. The stereo is all but dead, it lowers and raises the volume when it wants so I picked up a new lower end stereo just to have music for now. Also picked up a new set of trailer lights since the ones on the trailer died by the time I hauled the boat home. Lastly, there's the upholstery that needs some attention. Some areas have red stains that I doubt will come out but i'd like to get something that will clean the things up as best as possible.

cjjjdeck

Congratulations on becoming a Hurricane owner and welcome to the forum!  It looks like you've got a bit of work to do.  I'll get the ball rolling with a few comments, I'm sure others will chime in as well.

Hurricane uses circuit breakers for the helm operated systems, not fuses.  If the buttons on the left panel are pushed in, that usually means the circuit doesn't have a short (otherwise they would be popped out).  However, it sounds like you probably don't have power going to those systems and a look behind the dash panel is probably a good place to start.  There are some systems that use fuses and/or circuit breakers that are installed "in-line" with the harness system and usually are located nearer to the transom area.

The speedometer, tach and trim are circuits all associated with your motor.  Something sounds disconnected there, like a wiring harness connector.  I would try to follow where those wires that lead to the motor and I think you might find the common problem for all three.  Although you might also have disconnected wires to the gauges and trim switch themselves.

I found the manufacturer of your unusual trolling motor bracket (first time I saw one like that):

http://www.marineproducts.net/deck-mount-trolling-motor-bracket/

It looks like this bracket limits you to a transom mount trolling motor model (Minn Kota and Motorguide are pretty much your choices).  You will need to have the prop section of the trolling motor sit below the water line a minimum of 12" - 18".  This compensates for wave activity.  Measure from the top of the bracket to where the 12" deep mark is to see what minimum length is, then get the dimensions on your choice of trolling motor to make sure it will work.  My motor has a 60" shaft.  Remember, you can always shorten a longer shaft by adjusting its collar.  Many owners have trolling motors on their Hurricanes, so let us know if you have other questions about them.

Here's the links to Minn Kota and Motorguide:

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/

http://www.motorguide.com/motor-selector

Hope this helps!

FlyingV5

Good choice, powerhouse. You got the fishing version with the open front deck and two fishing chairs. Otherwise it is very much like my 2012 FD196 runabout. The 115 is the base engine, boat rated for up to 150. I like the 115 because it gets about 2.5 gph towing tubes wide open and top speed is not that important on a boat that needs to slow down for big waves. It looks like you are set up for dual batteries, good if you add the trolling motor. The power to the dash switches is fed by two relays inside the console on my boat, one for each side of the dash. They are a common problem area but electrical problems are hard to diagnose without crawling in there with a test light. Good luck and give us a progress report on that boat please.

powerhouse

Cjjj- Thanks for the info.  I was thinking that the problem would likely be somewhere between the circuit breakers and the switches for each non-working component.  My reason is because there's a "ACC" switch next to the cluster of breakers, and it has power.

I doubt I will keep the trolling motor bracket, instead I would like to use the bracket/hardware that's made for whatever trolling motor I end up getting.  Maybe I did something wrong but I've tried using the Minn Kota trolling motor guide several times, each time it only allows me 2 options and both are engine mount motors which I do not want.

FlyingV- Thanks, the fishing version was the only option.  The 115 seems to work well for the boat, looking forward to towing some tubes with it.  You're right, it is set up for two batteries right now, but it will for a house battery.  I plan on putting the battery/batteries for the trolling motor in the console.  I will keep you posted on the progress.

omar174

I had that same boat pretty much, though mine wasn't the fishing model. Either your switches are on the wrong side, or mine were. On my boat, switches were on the left, and breakers on the right side of the console. 

cjjjdeck

By using a different trolling motor bracket, you will have a better selection of bow mounted motors that will perform much better than using a transom/tiller mount on the bow (actually I was hoping you might say that!).

powerhouse

Omar-thanks for the visual.  It's likely my switches are reversed, just not sure of the reason.

Cjjj- It still seems that my options are limited according to the Minn Kota website, not sure why they only suggest the engine mounted trolling motor

cjjjdeck

I went through the motor selection guide using

Deckboat; 19ft; 1 battery; Bow-mount location; i-Pilot remote steering; 54" shaft

It came up with three models of bow-mount.  Two Powerdrive V2 @ 55lbs thrust and one Terrova 55lbs of thrust.  

With the motor on the bow, you may appreciate using a model with a handheld remote.  My foot petal has yet to be used.

powerhouse

The ones you found were under "freshwater" correct?  I'm looking for a saltwater version.

cjjjdeck

Yes, I did use the fresh water and yes, you're right about motor choices using their motor selection wizard under saltwater, somethings not working right there, weird.

Minn Kota Models:

The Riptide model is what you want and 55 lb thrust is what you get.  The shaft length available is 54" and 48" in the 12 volt models.  i-Pilot and Co-Pilot models allow you to control the motor from a wireless remote.  Your choices are:

Riptide ST 55/i-Pilot Link 54" shaft

Riptide ST 55/1-Pilot 54" shaft

Riptide SP 55/CP 54" shaft

Riptide SP 55/CP 48" shaft

Motorguide Models:

Both models are 55 lb of thrust.

Varimax V55SW 50" shaft, hand control

Saltwater Wireless W55SW 48" and 54" shafts. wireless foot pedal

Make sure the length will work for you.  Prop needs to be in 12" to 18" below the water surface.

I have a Terrova model with the i-Pilot.  i-Pilot allows you to fish more and maneuver less, it's great technology you may want to consider if it's in the budget.

powerhouse

Thanks.  So 55 thrust will be enough for my set up or do I need to go with a 24v unit?

cjjjdeck

Minn Kota removes the 12 volt option when you get to the 22 ft boat length (in the Freshwater section).  It really depends on how you are expecting to use it.  If you use it mostly for just maneuvering the boat or slowly going up a shoreline (which is what I do), then the 55lb thrust will probably work fine.  If you are using the motor to actually troll, then the 24 volt models will make that happen better and the batteries will provide power longer. 

powerhouse

Thanks CJ.  I will basically be using it in the same pattern as you do.

I'm trying to work on the electrical issues as we speak.  I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the gauges.  I tested the power and ground to the speedometer and got nothing.  So I tried to trace the wires back and it looks like the blue wire goes to the "Nav light" or "Int light"  switch, it's hard to tell due to the bird's nest of wiring which I know can't be factory.  I'm considering running a power and ground from battery to a fuse block/ground bus like on my Mako, then I could easily run appropriate wires where needed.  Any advice would be grateful before I make a decision.

powerhouse

Trying to upload pictures, will post as soon as possible.