Need advice about replacing float switch in FD232

six50joe

I bought my 1998 Fundeck 232  four seasons ago.  The bilge pump had never run automatically, but functioned fine manually via the cockpit switch.  I suspect based on posts I've seen and my own observation that the float switch is bad, but I don't know this for sure; I haven't found any blown fuses that are easily accessible.

The normal systematic method of proving this out before replacing it doesn't work for me this time;  it's currently not in a place I can fill the bilge with H20, and there's no way for me to physically test its override switch (if it has one) due to its location.  Plus, I plan to launch it over the next 2 days

Thus I've decided it's worth it to risk losing $30 on a new switch and a little wasted time and effort if the problem is actually something else (seems unlikely to me).  Besides, it's over 10 yrs old.

I was just going to go ahead and remove the old one and use 1" stainless steel screws to fasten the new one into the bilge floor.   But since I haven't replaced a bilge pump or float switch before, I poked around in this and other forums to find out if I'm overlooking anything.   Looks like I could be, and so I'm hoping for some advice, Hurricane specific all the better.

When I remove the old switch, will it be sufficient just to fill the existing screw holes with 5200?  There seems to be some debate about using this vs some type of fiberglass filler.  

As an option, is there anything wrong with just cutting the wires from the existing switch and leaving it there?  If so I would install the new switch (one of those steel ball ones you get at West Marine)  somewhere near the old one.

If I screw the new one into the floor, do I need to worry about water getting into the fiberglass?  Do I need to seal around its mounts?

Help greatly appreciated.

nquirk

@six50joe.  Is the existing one installed on a metal plate?  If so, I'd remove the mounting plate, and install the new float switch in place of the old one.

If you're removing it I would think 5200 to close the existing screw holes would be sufficient.  As well, I'm not aware of manufacturers sealing holes that are screwed in place, but if you're really concerned, pull them back out, load it up with 5200 and reinsert them to be safe.

As for the wiring, I assume you're replacing the existing float switch.  Why not simply tap into the existing wires as they're in line with the power source from the battery.  If you want to be certain, re run all new wires however, there should be an inline power source (may have a 4 or 5A fuse) as well that you could check.  These tend to corrode or fail so I'd look for that if you have a chance.  Might save you some work.

six50joe

Thanks for your advice.  I think you may have seen my post on a similar topic.   My plan was to tap into the existing wiring as you suggest.  I won't be physically at the boat until tomorrow, but took the below picture a week ago.  It would appear that (what I assume are) the the original pump and float switch are mounted directly into the bilge floor.  Since the switch I bought is one of those swiveling types with a steel ball in it, it looks like I'll need to secure the wiring so that nothing can interfere with its operation.  Not looking forward to cramming myself down there to do the work.  I've been in there enough times this offseason but never had to go that far in

Capt_Steve

@six50joe ... here's the response from Terri in Hurricane Customer Support. Her email is tgipson@nauticglobalgroup.com 

There is an diagram of the bilge bracket that I can send to him. This diagram only shows the specs.  On his 1998 he would not have had the automatic feature.  He would need to have an upgrade to the bilge with the auto float.

six50joe

I feel really dumb right now, but in a good way.  Yesterday I laid out all my tools, 5200 and swiveling float switch and got ready to stuff myself through the battery hatch and squirm my way into the bilge area to spend some uncomfortable time.  Just as I was about to I noticed the access hatch just in front of the outboard.  I completely forgot it was there.  I could easily reach the pump and float switch from it.  

Then my second lucky discovery.  Now that I could reach the switch I saw that I didn't need to do any drilling or filling; the switch mounted on to a bracket and could easily be replaced, and my local marina had a new one.  Score.

Weird thing after installing it though is that that while the new switch works fine, and operates the pump automatically (which I'd never had on this boat before), the manual rocker switch on the console no longer works, and doesn't even light up.  Haven't had a chance to inspect it yet, but not a biggie for now.

Thanks for your responses and Happy 4th!

rdcastle

six50joe;
I was doing some poking around on my 2001 GS 201 yesterday in prep for installing my VHF and moving the power for all my electronics to one of the dash switches. I looked at the bilge pump switch on my (recently acquired) 201 and it is just an ON/OFF without a way to make it automatic at the dash panel. I have a float switch also which worked when I installed and tested it but when I loaded the bilge with water it would not operate the pump. I have just been using the manual setting and the pump works fine. More investigation to come but my plans for this Fall/Winter are to replace the entire switch panel anyway and move the bilge pump to a separate control with automatic setting. I will also be installing an on board charger and relay, et.