Bimini Top

dhcody

I have a 2013 SS188 and operation of the binini top is very difficult to raise, lower and removal when putting on the universal boat cover.  Any ideas on changing the plastic fittings to metal and using a real pit pin.   The boat motor are fantastic but they sure scrimped on the bimini and put the cheapest one avalible on the boat. The holes dont really line up and putting the pins in and out with those flip locks just to raise and lower is a chore to say the least.

 

Thanks Guys... Happy Boating

Dennis Cody 

Livingston Texas

nquirk

@dhcody, you can certainly change out the hardware from the plastic ones to the stainless steel hardware however, in my experience with a friend with a similar boat but with the SS hardware, the SS isn't any easier.  They use similar pins with flip locks, etc and are about $6-8 per piece of hardware.  You may be able to find the pins you've mentioned (http://www.iboats.com/Bimini-Top-Mounts-Fittings/dm/cart_id.406299549--session_id.437397919--view_id.693690)

I own a 2010 SS188 and yes, they've cut expenses on areas as you've suggested to minimize cost and get the boat in the sub $20k price point.

 

dhcody

Thanks for the info.... I think I will buy the pins with the retractible round balls in the end instead of the leaf lock... This should help.... Appreciate your reply

 

Dennis Cody

1pointofview

hmmm, interesting.  never thought about getting the stainless still hardware.  I have had my 2013 ss188 for a little over a month and noticed that the plastic holders were already getting wear.  I trailer my 188 and put it in my garage so I am constantly dropping and raising the top.  I think next year I will look to replace the plastic stuff with the stainless.

Either way, I have the dropping and raising of the top down to a science so i bet replacing the the plastic fittings will make it even smoother

1pointofview

also, can someone post a link to the hardware?

nquirk

@1pointofview.  I provided a link above that lists the hardware online. You can get this at iboats, overtons, and pretty much local marine supply places.

Just pay close attention to the sizing (inner versus outer diameter)

 

dhcody

Nquirk posted the link   (http://www.iboats.com/Bimini-Top-Mounts-Fittings/dm/cart_id.406299549--session_id.437397919--view_id.693690)

I am also going to change the pit pins to the ones with the release balls rather than the flip lock.  It is also a tapered pin and will sure work better with plastic or stainless hardware for allignment.

 

Dcody

Bentley59

I have a 2013  Sundeck Sport 188 and I'm having issues with the frame on the Bimini top breaking while trailering. It has happened twice in the last few months. It looks like they have put a rivet through the main frame piece to add a coupling for the adjustable pieces of the frame and thus weakening the frame structure. This is where it is cracking. Has anybody else seen this? 

HydroCanis

I have the SS parts, and they're not so easy, either. I've noticed that keeping a little oil on them helps. I would think that tapered pins would help considerably, since you could then use the pins to help with alignment, something that the flip type can't really do.

ss188rider

Bentley59 said:

I have a 2013  Sundeck Sport 188 and I'm having issues with the frame on the Bimini top breaking while trailering. It has happened twice in the last few months. It looks like they have put a rivet through the main frame piece to add a coupling for the adjustable pieces of the frame and thus weakening the frame structure. This is where it is cracking. Has anybody else seen this? 

I wondered if anyone else had the same problem with the bimini top.  I have the same boat and I have had the boat for 2 years.  The same left pole has broken in the same place and has been replaced twice now.  The aluminum pole can't handle the trailering.  Most of my driving is on a 2 lane highway driving less than 55mph for 45 minutes.  I should have upgraded.  Now, I'm going to take the bimini top down while trailering to keep it from breaking again.  What a pain in the neck!

Barefootwilson

Same problem with my 2011 188, top very flimsy and repeated breaks compared to the one that was on my 2005 Fundeck 196. A lot harder to put up and down. 

1pointofview

I replaced my aluminum frame with a stainless steel one at the end of last season.  I got it through my Hurricane dealer who got it from the Hurricane Manufacturer.  It was almost completely plug n play.  I took the canopy off theold one and it fit perfect on the new one. All the existing hardware on the boat lined up fine.  The frame came pre-wired and came with a new light on the top of the bimini.  All i had to do was cut the 2 pronged connector off the old bimini and slice it on the new bimini .  

I drive from Nashville to Destin at least 1 time a year and the aluminum frame will not handle that type of long term stress so I had to go steel.  I will also remove the canopy from now on as well to reduce the amount of wind resistance on the frame.  

camphermitage

i have a 2013 188 SD and my Bimini top has broken twice.   Very frustrated as the boat has less than 18 hours in the water.   Did the upgrade to steel resolve your issues?   Also are you happy with the 115 hp?

1pointofview

I drove from Destin to Nashville a few weeks ago. I took the canopy off the frame and used bungees to wrap the polls.  I also took the Bimini light off the frame.  I will never drive long distances with the canopy cover on again.  While driving with the cover and the bimini boot on, the entire frame just shakes bad.  Real bad.  When I took the canopy off there was hardly any shake.

I did take a pool noodle and cut it into sections then cut it long way to place between the sections of the polls that touch and wrapped them with a bungee.  It helped secure the polls even more and kept from the medal on medal rubbing.

I went to the lake this weekend and had the canopy and boot cover on.  It gets so much wind resistance.  For the 1.5 hr drive to the lake, I will keep the cover and boot on but I am going to wrap up the boot.  There is to much room inside the boot and it fills up with air while driving on the road which then creates drag while hauling down the road at 70mph.  Wrapping the boot will help keep the air out and cut down on the wind resistance

But on my trip to Destin, I will always take the canopy off now and simply protect the polls with foam noodles and bungees.  


As far as the 115, last weekend was the first time in a long time it was just me and my family. We normally take several people with us, Normally about 9 folks on the boat.  We normally tube and it becomes tricky in rough water with 7 people on the boat and 2 people on a tube.  It is doable and pulls ok, I could just tell with all that weight, the 150 would be a lot better.   When we cruise with 7-9 people, I find we are around 20mph at 5rpm.  This weekend, with just the 4 of us, we were running about 26-28mph at 5rpm.  

115 is more than fine with a half full boat. The more the people, the more of a struggle but we have done ok.  Probably can get a more aggressive prop but we get good gas and decent performance with what we have which was what came with it when we bought it. 

camphermitage

appreciate the comments.   Makes sense using the noodle as support for the boles and using bungee cords.   Long distance I may remove the entire bimini and strap the frame in the back on my truck.   

I have a 115 evinrude etec.....   When tubing with any kind of weight in the boat very difficult to plane the boat...   Appears the etecs sweet spot to plan is 4,000 rpms.   

Gotdoor

This is probably to late, but I'm new to the form. As far as replacing the plastic with SS there is one problem with this SS will eat the aluminum poles in time.