New install on Hurricane GS 202

nquirk

@EzGoinFlGuy, I think you should be fine to install them there.  However there are a few things to consider.

1. If you have fused connections in that area, ensure they are sealed and/or rated for ignition protection (similar to the fuse holders you've shown in your picture)

2. Venting.  You need to provide some sort of venting into the battery storage compartment.  Keep in mind that even sealed batteries have vents that only open when excess pressure builds up inside the battery case in the event of overcharging. So, expulsion of explosive hydrogen gas is still something to consider.

Not meaning to alarm you but definitely two factors to consider if you have the space you're willing to give up in the front port lounge.

EzGoinFlGuy

Just got some bad news; I may have a lower end issue now. Yesterday noticed grinding from forward to reverse and back. Hadn't noticed it so much the earlier first 2 times out. Talked to the dealer and they say it could be an adjustment or worse. I could be spending my I-pilot $$ on the lower end!

I ran the heck out of the boat all day yesterday by myself just to get familiar with the new to me 202. Everything went flawless, cept the shift grind. Whoa is me. I should have started another thread here, but you guys are pretty in-the-know and may even put a finger on the problem.

Thanks again Guys,

EZ

nquirk

EZ that's tough to hear.  I've heard there are some adjustments that can be made in the lower units as the dealer indicated.

You say grinding.  Are you slowly putting it in forward and/or reverse?  If so, it will grind.  The dog clutch in these lower units in my opinion aren't like a fine lady requiring a gentle touch. :O

They're designed to be shifted into gear quickly.  When you do it quickly, does it still grind?

If so, you may be able to have the dealer see if any adjustments can be made.  If not, it could potentially be an issue with the clutch however I suspect not since it engages and runs.

Let us know how you make out.

EzGoinFlGuy

Taking it in this AM. This issue is just starting. Didn't notice it before Sunday's day on the water. Will post results.

I've had several boats (more than 10+) over my 67 years and never a lower unit problem until now. Guess it's my  turn!

EZ

nquirk

Good luck EZ.  We're rooting for ya!.  Hopefully its a simple fix.

cjjjdeck

Agreed, we're all rooting for ya!  I want you to spend the money on the new toy! [-O<

EzGoinFlGuy

Hey thanks guys.

I had a retired Yamaha marine mechanic look at it and he says the problem is in the gear case. Since retiring he no longer has access to the special shop tools for the job. Marina time! Bad time to take the boat to the marina!! They may be able to look at it next week. I don't want the problem to escalate, rather be safe than sorry$$$$.

 Bummer, had a big weekend on the water with friends planned. Oh well, we can boat year round here in Fla.

Stay afloat guys! )

 

EZ

EzGoinFlGuy

Update:

Dealer got to my rig yesterday and made an adjustment to the owner, "ME"! There were no metal shavings in the lower end as I expected. They tell me to change gears like I mean it and don't nurse it into gear. My last Yamaha was a 2006/115 on a 196f and this is a 2004 150 on my GS202. I expected the 150 to shift into gear the same as the 115. They say "NOT", something about different gear works between the 2 as well as 2 years in technology.

Guys, That was my go ahead with the I-Pilot. Put in my order when I got home and will have it Monday August 26. "a NEW toy looking forward to  playing with it!~

***I'm still tossing around sharing one of my existing 2 (new) batteries with a new 3rd battery for the 24volt Minn Kota, utilizing an additional Perco battery siitch to isolate one system from the other.   So running would be on battery #1 (Battery switch on #1) with #2 as back up. While #2  is not used running, join it by Perco switch to battery #3 for the 24volt Minn Kota power supply.

My battery compartment will only fit 3 batteries! I'm just trying to use the existing room designated for batteries. Also charging might be easier using my 12 volt charger when the batteries are separated by switch. I'm one of those fussy guys that has/wants to have everything neat and tidy with wiring straight evenly spaced etc. It's not the cost of another battery here, I just want a clean install to look PRO!

Does any of this make any sense or an I shooting myself spittin in the wind? 

 

Any advise

If I'm being stupid here, just say the word. I'll just post to normal issues )

 

EZ

EzGoinFlGuy

Has Hurricane ever prewired for a trolling motor if it has a functional factory livewell? I have not dug into that yet.

EZ

nquirk

EZ, I don't know if Hurricane does a prewire on order, but by default with a factory livewell, no.  I can verify this as a I have the functioning livewell but wired my own trolling motor.

On your previous post, for the trolling motor, there are a few considerations.

First, will the 2 batteries in the trolling motor have the cranking amps to turn the outboard over if, in the event you needed to switch it in/out it can.

Having a backup battery is good, but if your batteries are on a charger and or maintained, you're likelihood of needing it is small.  I'd consider wiring the 2 inline for the trolling motor, and in the unlikely event you were stranded and needed to use on for your engine, swap cables rather than via a switch.  You can via the switch, but then you must be sure to isolate the 2 batteries so when you switch it, the outboard only get 12V, not 24V.

 

EzGoinFlGuy

 

Hey nq,

Still mulling it around. Will have to see what the rating is on the existing 2 batteries (they're switched) I they meet or exceed  running specs for the TM, I'll buy a beefy starting battery & give it a shot! 

Got my Rip-Tide I-Pilot   80#/54" today. Didn't realize it was going to be that  HUGE & heavy! Now all I have to do is battle the "make it fit" issue & using the RTA-17 Quick Mount. I'm not crazy about hanging the unit over any edge of the boat, but will make it work. The RTA puck may not have sufficient hold using 3 anchor bolts when mounting at an angle. If I go that way, I'll countersink a hole between the 2 opposing corners of the puck and add the 4th mounting bolt. Overkill, maybe, but that's me.

 

As always, thanks for the tips & tricks..  )

 

EZ  

 

cjjjdeck

EZ, make sure you use some kind of "backing" on those mounting bolts for the bracket (like large stainless steel fender washers, aluminum plate, marine grade plywood or King StarBoard).  With that kind of backing, you should be fine.

EzGoinFlGuy

Well Gents,

I'm working on the mounting  with RTA 17 Quick Release. No matter where I put the mount on my GS 202 to clear the bow's leading edge keeping the shaft 1" away I still have 2 bolt  holes of the mounts puck xposed . I wonder if another mount bolting further aft giving the assembly more support? The RTA 17 puck  catches about 2/3 of it's length on flat deck.

Next thought is to fabricate a plate to fit against the deck under the puck and extending the full length of the RTA 17.. Whoa is me, what am I getting into here??  )

EZ

 

cjjjdeck

The MKA-32 bracket has 6 mounting holes and my install used 5 of the 6 due to overhanging the bow and getting it into a good position.  It's plenty strong enough.  With the RTA-17, with 4 mounting hole and only 2 used, I agree that maybe a bigger base plate would be a good idea.  If it were me, I'd use King's StarBoard.  It's a polymer based product and absolutely great for the marine environment (I love this material).  You work with it with standard woodworking tools and it's available in many sizes and thicknesses.  The material is a bit pricey, but it will be a set it, forget it, permanent trouble free install.  Here's their website if your interested:

 http://www.kingplastic.com/products/all-products/king-starboard-family/

Here's some suppliers (there's probably more):

http://search.defender.com/?expression=king%20starboard

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=StarBoard%20Plastic%20Supplies&category=599&refine=1&page=

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard-cut-to-size.html?gclid=CMCN9MjzpbkCFQya4AodYQsAOw

EzGoinFlGuy

CJ,

Great tip, will get in touch with a Kings Starboard dealer in Florida Tuesday.

I will draw up a template to match the corners and provide dimensions for them to cut, basically matching the RTA mount. They have 1" stock and should work perfect. The puck will have all 4 bolt holes into the fabricated piece and through the hull. In addition I will add two countersunk holes for the bolts thru the hull to the rear of the piece. Should be bullet proof! Hope the diagonal mount looks a s good as the mounts I saw earlier in this post. Not crazy about mounting offset through the step!!!

BTW... Change of plans! Discovered 3 batteries will not fit in my battery box like I had hoped. Aft port lounge compartment is the new destination....Crap!!!!

 

EZ