Thank you so much for your involvement with the Owner's Club Forum! We hope you've gotten some great information and had the chance to interact with other owners on the current system.

SD 217...A couple of bilge pump questions.

2

Comments

  • pbolden
    pbolden Member Posts: 45 ✭✭
    Thanks for the info Capt Steve.  Through the access ports in the splash well...YIKES!  Question.  Typically how much water needs to sit in the bilge before the auto-float switch is tripped? 

    Thanks,
    Paul Bolden
    United States Coast Guard Aux, VFC, FSO-VE
  • andy
    andy Member Posts: 3
    Have 206 SD 217. Replaced bilge pump yesterday. Noticed the pump was a Johnson 1200 GPH cartridge pump so ordered new one from Overtons. Went in through access port in splash well had son hold flashlight and look through battery compartment and I used power drill with Phillips bit and unscrewed the 2 screws holding the pump/float mounting plate to the transom . When this was done passed the plate and pump forward through the access panel on deck on opposite side of battery access . The electrical conector for the pump wiring is in this access area took out old CARTRIDGE and put in new one and spliced in brown and black wires then just reversed the steps and everything worked fine. Did this with boat in the water and engine mounted (was standing in about 18 in of water). Took about 1 hour. Seem much easier when you use the Johnson replacement cartridge and reuse the float. Taking out the metal mounting plate was not to bad just let your helper guide you and work by feel. Andy
  • Capt_Steve
    Capt_Steve Member Posts: 416 admin
    Hey Paul...that auto-float should activate at a minimum of two inches of water.
  • donmat
    donmat Member Posts: 41 ✭✭

    Andy,

    I'm sure you thought of this but I hope you used 5200 sealant in the screw holes when reinstalling the plate as this could let water into the transom if not sealed. I'm glad to find out that this procedure works as I was looking at doing the same thing before I found the bad fuse that solved my problem. One thing I was wondering, were the wires long enough to pull the plate or did you have to cut them

     

    Don

  • andy
    andy Member Posts: 3
    Don. I did put sealant on the screws. Yes the wires were long enough. The best part of removing the mounting plate was that the plate and pump had enough slack in the wire to just pass it out through the access hole on the starboard side. There was a gray conector/disconnect inside the access port that you could pull apart and easily cut the old black and brown wires and splice in the 2new ones working on the outside deck . I can not imagine doing the replacement inside the bilge. Good luck
  • Azink
    Azink Member Posts: 1

    Thanks everyone.  I have an 2004 SD 217 & the automatic stopped working.  

    I was near to following some of the other steps you guys learned above, but now will look for the fuse near the battery first.  I was wondering about that bracket.  It is huge considering the application.  How long are the transom screws.

    Wish me luck.

  • waterboy
    waterboy Member Posts: 16 ✭✭

    I also wish you luck .  My three year old boat bilge only works on manual but fortunately for me i have the most awesome Newfie neighbour who automatically comes over and lifts the top and flips the switch after a rain. I will also look for the fuse.  It broke after year 1.

    He also usually has extra beer when I run out and tree of everything else.  Life at the cottage wouldn't be the same without him and his wife.

    ss 188 ob

    175 E-tec

  • bowens124
    bowens124 Member Posts: 6
    Have a 2010 hurricane looking for in line fuse. Brand new bilge pump and float switch.pump only works from switch on dash. Wired correctly.any help would be appreciated 
  • cjjjdeck
    cjjjdeck Member, Moderator Posts: 1,871 ✭✭✭✭
    If you're looking to "buy" an in-line fuse and holder, here's a link to iboats (other on-line suppliers have them as well) to purchase one, I personally prefer the ATO/ATC styles.  5 amp should do it, that's what your dash mount circuit breaker for the bilge pump should be:

    http://www.iboats.com/Inline-Fuse-Holder-Sea-Dog-Line/dm/cart_id.117752142--session_id.164079037--view_id.1184423

    If you are trying to "find" the in-line fuse, it will be on the wire going from the battery to the float/actuator switch which is usually brown with a white or yellow stripe.  It is probably located by the battery.



    Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
    2012 SD237 I/O Mercruiser 5.0L MPI ECT/ Bravo 3
    2012 Load Rite Elite Tandem axle trailer

  • ggibson2007
    ggibson2007 Member Posts: 8
    Fantastic simplified wiring diagram!  Thank you, cjjjdeck.  I had a long conversation with a customer service rep a few years ago, and gave up trying to find out if the dash switch bypassed the float switch. There it is on the diagram!  What a revelation.  Now I just need to find a way to wire in an indicator light on the negative cable from the battery to the pump so I can see when it's running.